Rc diff fluid setup

Each design has advantages and disadvantages—have a look. The ball diff top uses steel balls that roll on smooth rings to provide diff action without backlash or play while a gear diff must have some play to operate properly.

To compensate for this, racers tried packing thicker grease into their diffs. The solution was the fluid-filled diff, which first appeared with the Kyosho Inferno. By sealing the diff case, racers were able to lube the gears with silicone fluid. Unlike grease, the fluid constantly flows back into the gears, instead of being squished out or flung to the outside of the case and staying put. You can get a similar benefit by using Tamiya Anti-Wear grease in your gear diff.

This super-sticky grease clings to the gears and can make diff action very slow. Use just a little at a time to get the diff action you like; if you pack the diff with this stuff, it will lock it nearly solid! This cutaway of a Traxxas Revo diff shows the seals in blue that allow the diff to hold silicone fluid. The job can be messy, though. The super-sticky grease effectively slows diff action. Your email address will not be published.

Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Do you have a video to share with RC Car Action? Submit your video here. Ball diffs do require a bit more maintenance, but can be externally adjusted to help the performance of your vehicle. What is a OneWay Differential? The One Way Differential simply removes diff action from the front of the car. You will no longer have a ball style differential in the front of your car.

Tuning with a Differential This one is pretty basic. Looser diff: low-traction tracks. Tighter diff: high-traction tracks. A tighter diff will allow more instant throttle response and greater acceleration. This will provide an advantage to those who drive your buggy hard out of a corner. On the flip side under off power steering, your buggy would be more prone to understeer through the turns increasing the difficulty for off power steering. Decreasing the weight of differential oil will increase off power steering into corners.

This is excellent if you prefer to drive harder into a corner. On the downside under power, your buggy is more prone to understeer through corners while under power. A heavier oil will increase acceleration potential but will decrease off power steering capability.

Under heavy acceleration there is potential for the rear end to swing out. Decreasing acceleration potential will make it easier to get out of the hole with no throttle control as the front axle performs majority of the acceleration. Lighter oil will decrease rear end traction. This may provide more predictable steering at a loss of straighline acceleration.

Heavier oils will increase traction, but may decrease a positive feel for steering. By first limiting the throw, you can focus on creating more 'setup steering'. Think of setup steering as being more consistent vs. Additionally, you won't be fighting the car so you will be spending less time tuning something bad out and more time tuning good stuff in.

Drill a small hole in the bleeder hole of the cap. Do not drill the vent hole on the side of the cap. Fill the shock to the top, so the fluid is level or even slightly higher than the body. No need to use a bladder. Tip: Turn the cap counter clockwise until you feel the threads meet with the body, then turn the cap clockwise to seat. Pull the shock boot over the shock end and fully push the shaft into the shock body.

A little oil should come out. If none does, remove the cap and fill the body higher. With the black o-ring on the flat head screw, screw in the screw and pump the shock about 30 times and leave the shaft fully extended.

Remove the bleeder screw and push the shaft all the way in, then quickly put the screw back in. More oil should come out.

Using this method the shocks should be very close to dead when fully compressed and slightly retract when fully extended. Once you pump the shock a dozen times, it should be very close to dead on full compression and extension. The last thing is to tighten the cap with tools; it needs to be snug but don't over tighten.

The caps need to be a little tighter than you can do by hand but be careful when tightening the caps with tools. The composite caps need to be tight but not as tight as the aluminum caps. It's really easy to build emulsion style, but they do need a little more maintenance as they should be rebled when traveling or if there is a large temperature differential.

We also recommend rebleeding them before each event. Most important to consistent emulsion shocks is to make sure they don't hydro lock. Meaning the shaft should be able to be fully compressed.

If there is too much oil in the shock, the shaft will be tough to fully press in, and you will need to bleed them again. Getting the diff in the housings with one shim on each side can be challenging. They are delicate, thin, and have nothing to keep them in place while you try to install the diff. What you can do to make installation easier is to cut a. If you're having an issue with your clunk moving and becoming kinked in the tank, try this quick fix.

Using a small set of needle nose pliers we use these remove the clunk from the tank.